The Best Circular Saw Reviews: Corded and Budget Options

A circular saw is a handheld power saw with a spinning toothed blade. It is one of the most useful tools a woodworker can own.

Used safely, it makes clean, accurate cuts in dimensional lumber, plywood, and pressure-treated wood, and with a good blade it can handle some finish work too.

Below we review nine saws, corded and cordless, then explain the features that matter: drive style, blade size, bevel capacity, brakes, and shoes.

OUR TOP PICK

All things considered, we recommend the DeWalt DWE575SB as the best circular saw for most of your cutting needs.

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The Best Circular Saws Are:

Product	Details
1. DeWalt DWE575SB	1. DeWalt DWE575SB Our Top Pick	- Ergonomic design - Electric safety brake - Dust blower	Check Current Price
2. SKIL 5280-01 Laser Guided – Best Budget Circular Saw	2. SKIL 5280-01 Laser Guided – Best Budget Circular Saw	- Safety button - Ergonomic handle - Sawdust blower	Check Current Price
3. PORTER-CABLE PCE310 15 Amp Circular Saw	3. PORTER-CABLE PCE310 15 Amp Circular Saw	- Depth adjustment and spindle lock - Heavy-duty performance - Lightweight	Check Current Price
4. Makita XSS02Z 18V Cordless Circular Saw	4. Makita XSS02Z 18V Cordless Circular Saw	- Compact and portable - Cordless - Ergonomic handle	Check Current Price
5. DEWALT DCS575B FLEXVOLT 60V Circular Saw	5. DEWALT DCS575B FLEXVOLT 60V Circular Saw	- Cordless - Powerful and durable motor - Automatic voltage changing battery	Check Current Price
6. BLACK+DECKER Circular Saw with Laser – BDECS300C	6. BLACK+DECKER Circular Saw with Laser – BDECS300C	- Onboard tool storage - Inexpensive - Lightweight	Check Current Price
7. Makita SP6000J Plunge Circular Saw	7. Makita SP6000J Plunge Circular Saw	- Electronic speed control - Variable speed control - Dust collection system	Check Current Price
8. Bosch CS5 120V Circular Saw	8. Bosch CS5 120V Circular Saw	- Spindle lock - Anti-snag lower guard - Powerful motor	Check Current Price
9. TACKLIFE TCS115A Circular Saw	9. TACKLIFE TCS115A Circular Saw	- Metal handle and laser design - Powerful motor - Flexible bevel cutting	Check Current Price

A circular saw can cause serious injuries when mishandled, so safety features and good control matter. Every portable circular saw should have a working guard above and below the shoe. OSHA requires guards above and below the base plate on portable power-driven circular saws.

Before each use, check with the saw unplugged that the spring-loaded lower guard retracts and snaps back smoothly. Wear safety glasses, and support the work so the kerf does not close and pinch the blade.

1. DeWalt DWE575SB 15-Amp – Best Corded Circular Saw

This saw is light for a corded model and cuts smoothly.

You have three options when looking at the Dewalt DWE575SB. You can purchase the saw on its own, have it come with a rip fence option, or have it come with the best circular saw blade. It takes standard 7-1/4-inch blades. It features a 15-amp motor to provide consistent cutting power. This allows it to produce a no-load speed of up to 5,200 RPM.

It bevels to 57 degrees and has depth adjustment. An integrated dust blower keeps the cut line clear, and the electric brake (the "SB" in the model number) stops the blade quickly after you release the trigger.

It is corded. DEWALT also sells cordless circular saws if you need to work away from outlets.

Specs

• 5,200 RPM
• 7.25 inch saw blade size, carbide-tipped
• 8.8 pounds
• Corded electric, 15 amps
• Sidewinder

Pros

• Lightweight at 8.8 pounds
• Ergonomic design
• Electric safety brake
• Dust blower
• Tough and durable
• Adjustable cutting depth

Cons

• Cord limits mobility

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2. Skil 5280-01 15-Amp Laser Guided – Best Budget Circular Saw

This saw combines good power with a low price. It takes standard 7-1/4-inch blades with a 5/8-inch arbor, so blades are easy to find.

At about 8.7 pounds, it is light enough to use for long periods. Its 15-amp motor runs at up to 5,300 RPM.

Another reason why this tool made it to our list is its integrated dust blower feature. With this feature, the line of cut will always be clear and free from sawdust. This tool allows for a variety of cuts, thanks to its bevel capacity of 51 degrees with a positive stop of 45 degrees.

It has a laser guide that projects the cut line. The laser marks one edge of the blade, so check which side of your pencil line the kerf will fall on before you rely on it.

It comes with a 7-1/4-inch carbide-tipped blade. A spindle lock makes blade changes quick.

The base plate is stamped steel. It is less rigid than magnesium or aluminum shoes but works fine for general cutting.

We talk about this more in our Skil 5280-01 review.

Specs

• 5,300 RPM
• 7 1/4-inch saw blade diameter, carbide-tipped
• 8.7 pounds
• Corded-electric
• Sidewinder
• 51-degree bevel capacity

Pros

• Sawdust blower helps you see the cut line
• Safety button
• Ergonomic handle for comfort
• Lightweight
• Affordable

Cons

• It lacks electronic brake

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3. PORTER-CABLE PCE310 15 Amp Circular Saw

The PORTER-CABLE PCE310 is a solid corded saw. This circular saw is ideal for skilled professionals, amateurs, and DIYers. Its 15-amp motor runs at up to 5,500 RPM, and the saw weighs about 9 pounds.

The saw is well balanced, which reduces fatigue. Like any saw, it cuts softwoods faster than hardwoods; slow the feed in hardwood.

The shoe gives a clear view of the cut line. Metal upper and lower blade guards resist cracking.

Learn more about this Porter Cable model here.

This machine comes with a 7 1/4-inch blade that provides you with clean and accurate cuts. The PORTER-CABLE PCE310 circular saw delivers 2.5-inch cuts at 90 degrees angle and up to 1-7/8 inches at a 45-degree angle. The blade offers superior cuts whether you are using the 55 degrees max bevel, the presets, or any other settings. It also has a spindle lock, which allows you to change the blade with ease.

Depth adjusts quickly. It is corded, and an auxiliary handle gives a second hand a secure grip.

Specs

• 5,500 RPM
• 7.25 inch blade
• 9 pounds
• Corded-electric
• 15 amp
• 55-degree max bevel

Pros

• Powerful motor
• Safety feature
• Depth adjustment
• Heavy-duty performance
• Lightweight
• Not bulky, lets you maintain clear view of cut line

Cons

• It lacks a rip guide

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4. Makita XSS02Z 18V Cordless Circular Saw

The Makita XSS02Z is a strong pick among the best cordless circular saw options. It runs on Makita's 18V LXT battery platform, so batteries work across other Makita tools. The "Z" means the saw is sold bare, without a battery or charger. Run time depends on battery size and the material you cut.

When it comes to design, the model has a lot to offer. This tool comes with an ergonomic handle that makes it easy to hold and work with.

It is compact and easy to hold. The motor runs at up to 3,700 RPM with a 6-1/2-inch blade.

It bevels to 50 degrees and weighs about 7.3 pounds with a battery. Makita's LXT batteries have built-in protection against over-discharge, overheating, and overload.

Specs

• 3,700 RPM
• 6.5 inches, TCT saw blade
• 7 pounds
• Battery-powered

Pros

• Compact and portable
• Cordless
• Powerful
• Ergonomic handle
• Shares batteries with other Makita 18V tools

Cons

• Smaller 6-1/2-inch blade cuts less deep than 7-1/4-inch saws
• Battery and charger sold separately

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5. DEWALT DCS575B FLEXVOLT 60V Circular Saw

The DEWALT DCS575B is a cordless saw with power close to a corded model.

Its brushless motor runs at up to 5,800 RPM and takes a 7-1/4-inch carbide-tipped blade, so it cuts 2x lumber in a single pass.

It bevels to 57 degrees. It runs on DEWALT's FLEXVOLT batteries, which switch voltage automatically to also power DEWALT 20V MAX tools. The "B" means the saw is sold bare, without a battery.

It is battery-only and cannot run from an extension cord. It has an electric brake that stops the blade quickly after you release the trigger.

Specs

• 5,800 RPM
• 7 1/4-inch blade
• 10 pounds
• Battery-powered
• Sidewinder

Pros

• Cordless
• Powerful and durable motor
• Automatic voltage changing battery
• Electronic brake
• Depth adjustment

Cons

• It is a bit pricey

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6. BLACK+DECKER Circular Saw with Laser – BDECS300C

The BLACK+DECKER BDECS300C is one of the most affordable saws on our list. It has a 13-amp motor, a little less power than the 15-amp saws here. It also comes with a spindle lock feature. This feature lets you change the blade with ease.

It does best at quick, short cuts. For heavy, repeated cutting of large material, a stronger saw is a better fit. It bevels to 45 degrees.

It has a laser guide and onboard storage for the blade wrench. This unit also comes with a 7.25-inch blade. The complete package comes with one circular saw, one 7.25 inches saw blade, and one Hex key.

This is a corded tool, but Black and Decker has a great cordless option that’s great too. Check out our review of the Black + Decker Lithium Ion Circular Saw here.

Specs

• 5,500 RPM
• 7.25 inches
• 7 pounds
• Corded-electric
• 13 amp
• 45-degree bevel max

Pros

• Onboard tool storage
• Laser provides cut line
• Inexpensive
• Lightweight

Cons

• It does not deliver straight cuts for large materials
• Lacks positive bevel

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7. Makita SP6000J 12-Amp Plunge Circular Saw

The Makita SP6000J is a plunge-cut track saw for professionals and serious hobbyists, and it is the most expensive saw on our list. It is designed to run on a guide rail (sold separately) for straight, splinter-free cuts in sheet goods.

Its 12-amp motor has a variable speed dial from 2,000 to 5,200 RPM, so you can match speed to the material. A current limiter helps protect the motor, and a soft start reduces start-up jerk. It bevels to 48 degrees with positive stops at 45 and 22.5 degrees. This tool has a large cutting capacity of 1-9/16 inches at 45 degrees and 2-3/16 inches at 90 degrees.

Another great feature of this model is its electronic speed control that delivers a smooth cutting experience by maintaining the speed under load. Furthermore, it comes with a 1.5 inches OD dust port that directs materials away from the operator and connects to a vacuum system. This tool also has an onboard hex wrench for easy and fast blade changes.

Specs

• 2,000 to 5,200 RPM
• 6.5 inches, 48T Carbide-tipped blade
• 9.7 pounds
• Corded-electric
• 48-degree bevel

Pros

• Electronic speed control
• Variable speed control
• Plunge cuts and clean edges on a guide rail
• Dust collection system
• Soft start

Cons

• It is expensive
• Guide rail sold separately

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8. Bosch CS5 120V 15-Amp Circular Saw

The Bosch CS5 is a 15-amp, blade-left sidewinder. Bosch lists its no-load speed at 6,200 RPM, the highest on our list. It is also the only blade-left sidewinder we reviewed, which lets a right-handed user see the cut line easily.

It has a dust blower, but on this blade-left design the dust tends to blow toward the operator. The anti-snag lower guard rides over narrow offcuts without catching.

It takes a 7-1/4-inch blade and cuts 2-7/16 inches deep at 90 degrees and 1-7/8 inches at 45 degrees. It bevels to 56 degrees.

Bosch is known for great power tools, and this is a great example of Bosch quality. Check out the CS10 model too, here’s our review of this particular unit from Bosch.

Specs

• 6,200 RPM
• 7.25-inch blade
• 10 pounds
• Corded-electric
• 15-amp motor

Pros

• Extremely high-speed cutting
• Spindle lock
• Anti-snag lower guard
• Powerful motor

Cons

• It does not blow dust away from the operator

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9. TACKLIFE TCS115A Circular Saw

The TACKLIFE TCS115A is a compact saw for light cuts, not a full-size replacement. It can be used one-handed, depth adjusts quickly, and it has a laser guide.

Its 5.8-amp motor runs at up to 3,500 RPM, enough for thin wood, plastic, and pipe. It comes with six blades of about 4-1/2 inches, including blades for wood, tile, and soft metal. Cutting tile creates silica dust, so cut outdoors or with dust control and wear a dust mask.

It cuts up to 1-11/16 inches deep at 90 degrees and 1-3/8 inches at 45 degrees. A lock-off button on the switch helps prevent accidental starts.

Specs

• 3,500 RPM
• 6 blades (4.75 inches & 4.5 inches)
• 8.27 pounds
• Corded-electric
• 5.8 amps
• On the fly depth adjustment

Pros

• Metal handle and laser design
• Six blades included
• Flexible bevel cutting
• Ergonomic and safety design

Cons

• Shallow cut depth; not for framing lumber

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Buying Guide: Things to Consider When Buying a Circular Saw

Here are the main factors to consider when choosing a circular saw.

Corded or Cordless Circular Saw

Decide first whether you want a corded saw or a battery saw. Most of the saws listed here are corded. A corded saw delivers steady power for as long as you need it.

However, if you don’t have an ideal place for woodworking and find outlets to be in short supply, you can always consider going cordless. And if you would be using the tool in a place where it would be difficult or impossible to get an electrical outlet, then your best bet is a cordless circular saw.

A cordless unit would also be great in a situation where an extension cord would be hard to work with. Even when you do have access to an electrical outlet, it is often nice to be able to move your tool around without the inconvenience of a cord.

Many cordless saws use 6-1/2-inch blades, which cut a little less deep than 7-1/4-inch blades but still cut through 2x lumber. Higher-voltage cordless saws, like the DEWALT FLEXVOLT above, take full 7-1/4-inch blades.

Cordless saws are now close to corded saws in power for most jobs. Corded saws still win for long, continuous cutting, since you never wait on a charger.

If you value portability and no cords, choose cordless. If you want steady power for all-day cutting at a lower price, choose corded.

The Best Circular Saw Styles

Circular saws come in either a sidewinder or a worm-drive style.

Sidewinder or Inline

You'll usually choose between a "sidewinder" and the best worm drive saw. The difference is how the motor turns the blade.

Sidewinders are direct drive saws. The motor sits beside the blade and drives it directly, which makes the saw shorter and lighter. It is the most common design.

Sidewinders come with the blade on the right or the left. Most are blade-right, which puts the motor's weight over the supported part of the board for a right-handed user.

On a blade-right saw, a right-handed user has to lean over to see the cut line, so many models add sight notches or lasers. Sidewinders are lighter and easier to handle, which suits most DIYers.

Worm Drive

Worm drive saws (and the similar hypoid saws) use gears between the motor and the blade. The motor sits behind the blade, in line with the cut. Gearing lowers blade speed but adds torque, so the saw is hard to bog down in thick or wet lumber.

Worm drives have the blade on the left, which gives a right-handed user a clear line of sight to the cut. The trade-off is weight: they are longer and heavier than sidewinders and take some getting used to.

For straight cuts with either type, add a circular saw guide for increasing accuracy.

Neither type is better overall. Beginners usually find a lighter sidewinder easier to control. Framers who cut all day often prefer the torque and reach of a worm drive.

The Size of the Blade

Most full-size circular saws take 7-1/4-inch blades, which cut about 2-3/8 to 2-5/8 inches deep at 90 degrees. That cuts any plywood and 2x lumber in one pass.

Many cordless saws take 6-1/2-inch blades. They cut a bit less deep but still handle 2x4s and plywood.

7-1/4-inch blades are the most common and usually the cheapest. The biggest difference shows up on bevel cuts: a smaller blade may not cut through 2x lumber at 45 degrees in one pass.

• Larger blades cut deeper and handle thicker stock.
• Smaller blades keep the saw lighter and easier for beginners to handle.

However, if you’re dealing with bulky pieces of wood that are bigger than your blade, then you should be looking at another type of tool.

The Material of the Blade

Almost all circular saw blades for wood are tungsten carbide-tipped. Carbide stays sharp far longer than plain steel, so it is the right choice for home and professional use alike.

Bevel Capacity

Bevel capacity is the steepest angle the blade can tilt. Many saws go past 45 degrees, to 50 or 57 degrees, which helps with roof framing and steep miters. Positive stops at 22.5 and 45 degrees make common angles quick to set.

Electric Brake

An electric brake uses the motor to stop the blade within a couple of seconds after you release the trigger. Without one, the blade can coast for several seconds.

It is a worthwhile safety feature. Brake or not, keep the saw clear of your body until the blade has fully stopped.

The Shoe

The shoe is the flat base that rests on the material you cut. Shoes are made from magnesium, Aluminum, or stamped steel.

Magnesium and cast aluminum shoes are light and rigid and stay flat, but they cost more and can crack if dropped hard. Stamped steel is cheaper and heavier; it can bend, but it can usually be straightened.

Laser Guide

A laser guide projects a line ahead of the blade, which helps beginners stay on a pencil or chalk line. Check which side of the kerf the laser marks, and treat it as an aid, not a replacement for a straightedge or track.

RPMs

RPM is how fast the blade spins with no load. Most full-size saws run around 4,500 to 6,000 RPM. Higher speed tends to give a smoother cut, but blade quality and tooth count matter more.

Variable speed, as on the Makita SP6000J, helps when cutting plastics and other materials that melt or chip at high speed.

Orientation

Most sidewinders are blade-right, so a right-handed user's saw weight rests on the supported side of the board. Blade orientation does not prevent kickback; good support, a sharp blade, and steady feed do.

A blade-left saw gives a right-handed user a clear view of the cut line, and many left-handed users find it more comfortable. If that is your preference, we recommend the Bosch CS5 as a great option to meet your needs. Try both orientations if you can before you buy.

How to Find the Best Baseplate for Your New Circular Saw

All circular saws come with a base plate. This is the flat component that the saw rotates through when you’re making a cut. You set the baseplate on top of your working piece and then run the saw through the cut line.

Base plates are magnesium, aluminum, or stamped steel. Stamped steel is cheapest. Its edges are bent up for stiffness, and a thin plate can flex, which makes straight cuts along a guide harder.

Steel is heavier and can bend if the saw is dropped, but a bent plate can usually be straightened. Magnesium and aluminum stay flatter and are lighter, but a hard drop can crack them, and a cracked shoe usually has to be replaced.

Magnesium is slightly lighter than aluminum, and both are durable in normal use. Saws do get dropped on job sites, so weigh repairability against weight.

As you look at your base plate options, you will also want to consider how the lower guard works with it. If the lower guard is slightly oversized or undersized, then it can sometimes snag on you.

That can make the saw jump during a cut. Look for an anti-snag lower guard, which rides over narrow offcuts without catching.

What Will it Cost Me to Buy a Good Circular Saw?

Prices range widely. Basic corded saws are the cheapest, while pro cordless kits with batteries and track saws cost several times more. Cheaper models tend to use stamped steel shoes and simpler guards but can still cut straight. Pricier models are more consistent and durable.

Factor in blades too. Unlike a chainsaw chain that you can sharpen yourself, carbide circular saw blades are best sharpened by a professional sharpening service, or replaced.

Is There Anything Else I Should Know About Circular Saws?

You will see extras like laser guides and LED lights. They are nice to have, but a basic saw without them still does the job.

A spindle lock is worth having. It holds the arbor still so you can loosen the blade bolt with the supplied wrench. Always unplug the saw or remove the battery before changing a blade.

Keep an efficient screwdriver set handy for adjustments to the shoe and fence.

A dust blower keeps the cut line clear, and a dust port lets you connect a shop vacuum. Both are useful but optional. Wear a dust mask for long cutting sessions.

LED lights are also fun but not necessary. These are bulbs commonly used to add extra light when working so you can make sure you are hitting the desired lines exactly. However, you don’t really need an LED light on the saw, and it’s better to just have great lighting in your workshop.

If you see the term “magnesium shoe,” don’t get confused. It’s just another way to refer to the base plate since it sits at the bottom of the circular saw.

Most blades for these saws are carbide-tipped because carbide stays sharp much longer than steel.

Bevel capacity beyond 45 degrees is useful for roof framing, but most beginners rarely need it.

Final Thoughts

Match the saw to your work: corded or cordless, sidewinder or worm drive, and the blade size you need. For more on choosing between tools, see our guide to effective circular saws compared with miter saws.

If you’re having trouble choosing a model, we recommend the DeWalt DWE575SB Lightweight Circular Saw as a safe bet for your first circular saw. It has plenty of power for most cutting jobs, an electric brake, and weighs under 9 pounds. View our full review of this Dewalt model here.

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Sources

• 1926.304: Woodworking tools, OSHA
• CS5 7-1/4 In. Blade-Left Circular Saw, Bosch
• How to Choose and Use a Circular Saw, This Old House